
Thursday, March 2, 2006
I knew once the rheostat didn’t work that I would need to find a plumbing solution to the problem of the over-powering-pump. I had read a number of beginner’s aquarium forums which referenced ball-valves and plumbing a line back into the sump to regulate return rate flow back to the tank. I did some more research and found that a simple “T” joint and two ball valves would probably do the trick. Trip four to the hardware store was to Menards (as I know they have one of the best plumbing selections in town, and, hey, I hadn’t been there yet.)
I brought the pump with me to make sure the fittings I was buying would meet my needs. I had decided that with the ball-valve solution I would need to bite the bullet and hard-plumb some or all of the return tubing out of the sump. The final design I came up with involves the following (in order of flow direction starting with the pump:
Pump > tightening bushing (which is removable for pump maintenance) ¾” PVC tubing > T joint (through to another 3/4 “ fitting, but the T branch is ½”)
> ½” Branch of T joint > ½” PVC tubing link > ½” ball-valve > ½” PVC tubing link > ½” to ¾” threaded bushing > bracketed link to more vinyl tubing back to the sump
> ¾” Branch of T joint > ¾” PVC tubing link > 90° elbow > ¾” PVC tubing link > ¾” ball-valve > ¾” PVC tubing link > 90° elbow > ¾” PVC tubing link > ¾” threaded bushing to original ¾” reinforced (now shortened) vinyl tubing up to the U-tube return pipe.
I spent a good hour at Menards making sure I had the right fittings and bought a length of both ½” and ¾” PVC tubing. I got back to Burge and started measuring and cutting lengths of PVC to insert into the fittings. I used my Craftsman rotary cutting tool (AKA Dremel tool) to cut the PVC and started a dry fitting run to see that everything fit together. Somehow or another I had failed to check the initial bushing from the pump to the first length of PVC, the bushing was a tapered one, and so the tubing did not seat correctly.
TRIP #5 to the hardware store! Back to my favorite, Iowa City Ace Hardware, to get the proper fitting (I also had to get the ¾” ball valve, because somewhere in my infinite wisdom, I had purchased two ½” ball valves at Menards when I really needed one of each). Back to Burge I went with the new bushing (which had the added benefit of being a tightening collar (like the female end of your garden hose, it’s removable for pump maintenance) and propper ball valve. I did one more dry run, incorporated the ¾” ball valve into the horizontal link and double, triple and quadruple checked my measurements. I then started cementing away! I let the seals set-up and then went back to attach the monster I had just created back into the system.
Since the original pluming involved just the length of vinyl tubing, it now needed to be shortened and attached to the hard plumbing I had just completed. I did so and hard-bracketed the end to the end of the threaded ¾” joint. Away I went, I fired up the pump and watched the tank regulate water levels with the overflow box. I noticed immediately that the vinyl link I had just added to the threaded ¾” joint was leaking a bit, so I unplugged the pump, removed the bracket, sealed the link with cement, replaced the tube and bracket, and used Teflon tape to create a fine seal on that joint as well.
Once I turned the pump back on it was only a matter of about 10 minutes before I had the return line regulated with the stint back into the sump and the pump remained submerged! No more micro-air bubbles! Perfection!
The final product looks like this:


Yah, I’m pretty proud of myself . . . larger images are located here.
More . . .